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I almost got conned – lesson learnt.

When demand is more than supply, you know it’s time you watch out for online retailers. After a few weeks of research, this is what I’ve gathered to help you identify and prove authenticity for this pair of highly sought-after kicks.

1. Tongue and heel pulling tabs

Do an index finger test on both – make sure your fingers go through effortlessly with some allowance.
Authentic: Long tongue and heel tabs, tongue tab goes up and down, forming a flat “Z” shape from a side view.

Replica: Index finger fits through your shoe tabs just nice or can’t fit through at all. Tongue tab is stitched flat on tongue or forms a obvious square shape from the side.


Authentic vs Replica

2. Nike swoosh on tongue tab

Authentic: Sharp and clean Nike swoosh, stitched directly onto the centre of tongue tab.
Replica: Curved tail on Nike swoosh, off centred or poor stitching on tongue tab. Basically an odd looking swoosh.
 
3. Nike swoosh

Authentic: Matte swoosh with bandage-looking textured material, with actual stitching.
Replica: Smooth glossy rubbery-textured swoosh with actual stitching.

One of the biggest give away:

4. Box information

Authentic: WMNS NIKE ROSHERUN / NIKE ROSHERUN (for men). “cm” is not capitalized, and product code tallies with the code stated in the inner shoe tag.
For brown boxes, make sure you have 7 rows of icon on your box. For colour code, “/” and “-” are often used with official colourway names.
Replica: ROSHE RUN / NIKE ROSHE RUN, “cm” is sometimes capitalized, and product code do not always tally with the code stated in the inner shoe tag.
For brown boxes, they’re only 6 rows of icon on top. Only “/” are normally used for colour codes with unofficial colourway names.


Authentic box informations

Replica box informations


Authentic vs Replica brown box

5. Shoe tag

Authentic: Second last bar is ALWAYS thick, located directly above the forth last number of the barcode. Websites “nikefreeworld.com” or “considered-design.com” (for Taiwan) does not have any odd breaks and are spaced nicely. Shoe tags are neatly stitched.
Replica: Second last bar is normally thin, website always contain odd breaks or weirdly spaced out alphabets. Shoe tags have messy stitches or are positioned at odd angles.


Authentic shoe tags


Replica shoe tags. Note the last picture, it does have a thick second last bar, however the font used and spacing is slightly off.

6. Shoe insole

Authentic: Lime green volt sole, one curved mark on the insole.
Replica: Volt sole appear more to the yellow tone with 3 curved marks.

This picture shows 3 curved marks on the upper right.

Disclaimer: The objective of this post is to prevent online buyers from being conned and tricked into buying “authentic items” when they’re really just “original grade” replicas. Original grade replicas are normally tagged as high as 90% of the price of an authentic pair, whereas “Grade A-AAA” replicas would normally be priced at 70% or less. However, this post is strictly NOT against replica – there’s nothing wrong if you own/want a pair. Please use this as a guideline to know what your item’s worth.

P/S: Pictures were taken from Google and Carousell. Big thanks to fellow Carousellers for being so helpful and provided me with enough pictures to make this post possible 🙂 Most of them purchased off local SG blogshops and pre-order dealers from UK, US, China and SG (with/without official website) who claimed their items to be authentic, marked their price up only to get disappointed buyers.

When you’re done choosing your own pair, do share it with your friends to prevent scammers. On a brighter note, we’re only a month away from blasting Christmas songs! *big fat smiley face*